Mon Ami’s,
The number of couture shows this week had me and every other fashion enthusiast glued to their phones. With brands like Schiaparelli, Christian Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier showcasing some of the most beautiful pieces of art on the runways - I can safely say that Couture Week did not disappoint.
History beckons our attention at Schiaparelli
Sigh. I love this brand and David Roseberry is a true visionary. I always say you can tell when a designer loves women and Roseberry sure does.
His collection, named “Icarus”, is a direct reference to the Greek myth. If you’re unfamiliar with this story, let me summarise it for you: a story of a man and his son escaping imprisonment to explore the world with wings glued together by wax. Icarus, unfortunately, meets his untimely end when he flies too close to the sun, failing to heed the warnings of his father. The myth reinforces the need to be ambitious but not to let it get excessive and lose control.
The dress in question (see above), was described by Roseberry as the following: “With what’s going on in the world today…couture promises that kind of escape I think. Icarus was the story of trying to escape. 15 minutes during the show, or the woman who wears these pieces for an evening, the promise of escape”. Combining references to mythology, art and fashion can only be done by some of the very best. Roseberry is one of them.
It wasn’t just Greek mythology that inspired this collection, but rather the designs and fashion of the past. After a visit to an antique shop where he stumbled upon ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s, he expressed his admiration and wanted to pay homage to the greats of the last century. “I'm so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity: Can't the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant? Has our fixation on what looks or feels modern become a limitation? Has it cost us our imagination?”. Referencing works of Yves Saint Laurent and even Elsa Schiaparelli herself, this collection is a true testament to honouring the past and creating something new, something special, for tomorrow.
Some of my favourite looks (above) include Look 27 (left), which is art that comes to life. The layering is beautiful and reminiscent of the Tianjin Binhai Library in China. My second favourite look was worn by Mona and took direct inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1948 haute couture gown. Don’t you just love it when fashion repeats itself?
Romance and wonder take over Christian Dior
Maria Grazia Chuiri took an unserious take on this collection: “Both my collection and my work are about building a wonderland that you can fully immerse yourself in”. I mean this in the nicest way possible, more of us should let go and allow child-like wonder to take over our lives. It’s that wonder that allows us to run away with our imaginations and find the beauty in the everyday. And looking at this collection, it wasn’t hard to do just this.
Though I feel that more colour could have been injected into the collection, the romantic element is clear. As is the inspiration from fairytales and aristocracy. The combination of soft, wispy fabrics with mohawks and embellished hoop skirts calls for us to dive into the world of imagination. My favourite look (centre) is a beautiful organza dress, shaped into a rose. Christian Dior himself, I’m sure, would be proud of this collection.
‘La Naufrage’ at Jean Paul Gaultier
All aboard! Ludovic de Saint Sernin is the eighth (and youngest guest designer) to take the helm of JPG for Couture Week. The vision was clear as glittery mermaids (including a reference to Ariel from The Little Mermaid) and corseted pirates took the runway. The title of the show translates to shipwreck, and it’s safe to say that this show was the treasure to be found amongst the wreckage.
My favourite look from this show is front and centre - a gorgeous, white feathered gown. I also love the look on the bottom right, which is supposedly inspired by Cindy Crawford’s 1988 photoshoot in Hawaii by Herb Ritts. The sheer effect with embellishment inspired by the sand as the dress clings to the body - so beautiful! With looks accompanied by the “wet look” makeup and hair, it isn’t hard to imagine these models stepping straight out of a pirate adventure. Whether a mystical siren or an enchanting pirate, you can find your place at Jean Paul Gaultier.
As we officially move into Fashion Month for Autumn / Winter 2025, I’m glad that we were able to admire the creativity of some of the greatest fashion minds of our time last week.
Until next time…bisous,
Alyssa
❤️